Brakes

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Brakes

Postby whitehillbillies » Sun Oct 19, 2014 9:01 am

Hi,
Having a few problems, getting off the left hand brake drum.
This wheel, was binding from the start.
Have backed off the brake adjuster completely, but still the hub is tight.
Next step it to undo the brake line, hopefully allowing the pads to reduce slightly
I tried tapping the drum with a rubber/plastic hammer, getting only a small movement.
Removing the 3 drum screws, I noticed another small threaded hole.
The bolts I tried, from my collection were either slightly to small or big.
I imagine it's a imperial UNC thread, so could someone please tell me the correct size, or do you use one of the 3 screws holding the drum.
Any other ideas for the drum removal.
Thank for your comments

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Re: Brakes

Postby whitehillbillies » Sun Oct 19, 2014 9:04 am

Hi,
I discovered the 4th small hole in the Drum is the same as the 3 counter sunk screws.
Found a bolt then tapped from the opposite side. Nothing was moving, to far, but enough to look between the gap to see the Trailing shoe was grabbing, moving out with the Brake Drum.
By a fluke, the Drum rotated forward, coming out a little.
Screwed the bolt a little more, rotated forward and pulling outwards, after a couple of goes, it was off.
The Trailing shoe then flopped backwards.
where was the spring ???? :?
A quick look in the online manuals, I worked out the Trailing shoe Anchor Plate had been put forward, bolted the bottom of the leading shoe, not to the rear Trailing shoe. The brake pads look quite new, so maybe the mistake was made fitting them.
The design, does appear that if backing up, it could grab ???? Locking the wheel, or does correctly adjusting the brakes remove this problem.

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Re: Brakes

Postby mikey999 » Sun Oct 19, 2014 12:59 pm

I found mine did grab a little in reverse, especially when new. Now, i dont notice it, i think chamfering the edge has stopped it, but could be partly to do with the fact the engine can move it now and ive no longer got to roll it by hand.

As you've probably seen, the trailing shoe relies on one spring at the bottom to hold it in against the slave cylinder (at the top) - you'll find the top of the trailing shoe is very easy to move by hand with little resistance provided by the bottom spring.

Ive never really looked into it too much, but with replacement shoes being 'universal' in the sense they have the same drillings top and bottom of each shoe, i wonder if a small and fairly light spring could be fitted at the top just to keep the trailing shoe in check?!
Cheers,
Mikey

1954 TEF w/ Banana Loader, & 3 Furrow Plough
1975 Land Rover Series 3
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Re: Brakes

Postby Grunt » Sun Oct 19, 2014 4:24 pm

I had the same trouble as Mikey with new shoes binding in reverse, I put it down to rubbish pattern parts. I filed chamfers, lead ins and what have you on them which reduced it a little bit. I got new shoes but didn't get round to fitting them. Eventually the shoes bedded in and stopped doing it.

As far as threads go I'd guess at most of them being UNC or UNF, but wouldn't be at all surprised if there were a smattering of Whitworth and BSF on parts that were developed in the earlier Series days and metric on newer stuff like seat belt mountings
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Re: Brakes

Postby whitehillbillies » Sun Oct 19, 2014 7:13 pm

Thanks for the replies.
Did put a chamfer on the Trailing shoe's top edge. It didn't grab, turning by hand after that.

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Re: Brakes

Postby whitehillbillies » Wed Oct 29, 2014 10:30 am

Hi, brake update,
Got the LH brake wheel cylinder apart. Tapping the pistons through and out from the one side and having it all fly apart and out onto the front yard, I managed to find the two pistons, old seals, two steel disks and the spring.

Soaking the flare nuts, with brake fluid for a couple of days, and then heating with my small blow torch ( advice from one of the Girls at work, she does own a Jeep ) I managed to undo the nuts.

I removed the cylinder, with the small length of steel pipe. ( Is it gal coated ???? )

With a bit more heat the bleed stud and Brake pipe nut undid.

More confusion, as the bleed stud appeared 8mm, the nut being 11mm.

My Imperial pipe spanners, seemed to loose, looking like the would spin on the Nuts.

The NEW bleed stud from Rover parts Australia, just push in the hole, seeming to be smaller than the original ones, which I cleaned up and will reuse, after I Hone the cylinder, and put the kit, I got from them, in.

Should check the seal size is correct first !!!!

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Re: Brakes

Postby Grunt » Thu Oct 30, 2014 12:26 pm

Not sure if I've already posted this link but it does help identify parts.
http://www.landroverworkshop.com/

Dunno what prices are like over there but landy stuff is so cheap here a new cylinder is only a few quid more than a seal kit. Not sure whether the brake lines are Galvy or what, mine have a green coating on them which hasn't lasted round the cylinder areas and have had to be replaced. Not certain what your threads will be but I would guess at them being UNF so your BSP spanners wouldn't fit.
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Re: Brakes

Postby White Wolf » Fri Oct 31, 2014 12:46 am

Unfortunately the Pound has been gaining a bit of weight over our dollar but if you have the time to wait it is certainly worth getting your Land Rover parts direct from the UK. I get my service kits in advance from this UK based eBay seller http://m.ebay.com.au/sch/wapsipurt/m.html?isRefine=true I can get three full service kits delivered to my door cheaper than buying one from a dealer here.
I had to replace the flywheel in one of my Discoverys, it cost me about $450 from the UK, which included $150 for shipping. To buy exactly the same item here is inexcess of $700.
1950 TEA, 1962 MF35 petrol
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Re: Brakes

Postby whitehillbillies » Fri Oct 31, 2014 7:35 am

Hi WW,
Thanks for the link, BUT it only takes me to ebay search, not the seller's site ????

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Re: Brakes

Postby White Wolf » Fri Oct 31, 2014 12:33 pm

The link was ment to take you to the seller's items for sale, for some reason I couldn't make a link to the seller's store. I guess thats what happens when I post from my phone during work time.The seller's name is wapsipurt.
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